Best LED for Portraits (100W + 200W)(Buyer’s Guide)

As a model photographer this article covers some of the best LED for portraits (100W + 200W lights) and covers using various light modifiers.  Information includes sample photos and YouTube reviews for mentioned products, plus comparisons discussing size, performance, cost and accessories.

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Technology is advancing fast

As someone that regularly reviews cameras and lenses, we are used to seeing only incremental improvements between different releases year after year.  A camera rear LCD screen size might go from 3” to 3.2” or useable high ISO limit increase by 1 stop.

When it comes to photography lighting equipment the speed of change is dramatic.  It only seems like a few years and suddenly our lights are old technology and perhaps no longer compatible with the latest generation of flash triggers.  Yes older lights still work great from 3, 5, 10 years ago but newer ones are now half the size and twice the power, not to mention all the new features.  

For this article i’ll stick to LED lighting for the most part, or what used to be called continuous lighting.  In the past the phrase continuous lighting included tungsten hot lights, fluorescent tube lights, light bulbs, high power daylight balanced light bulbs and the very early generation LED light panels. I used all of these.. and still have them.  Let’s take a closer look at LED lights specifically.

How photography LED lights are changing

It doesn’t feel that long ago when I repurposed my bike LED light to use for model photoshoots.  Even in 2019 when I started the YouTube channel I made a video about using my running head torch as a light for photoshoots.  

What changed in the last 6-7 years?  

The rapid advancement of technology in LED lights during this period has been pretty staggering.  From a practical perspective, lights have become both smaller and more portable plus much more powerful.  A winning combination!  In addition to the hardware improvements and physical form advancements, we then have the software improvements too.  Many modern LED lights can now be controlled remotely by a phone app.  Lights may include a built-in microphone and can flash to the music beat, and the feature list is pretty much endless.  We’ll get to that.

Bi-colour and RGB lights

The first generation lights were just daylight balanced.  For example my 60W Sirui C60B LED light.  If I wanted a warm light or coloured light i’d need to gel the lights with coloured gel sheets like a CTO gel. 

Second generation LED lights then offered bi-colour so I was able to dial in the colour temperature from perhaps 2800K (warm) to 6800K (cool). The third generation LED lights (as i’m calling them) are RGB lights, which allowed you to dial in pretty much any colour from the spectrum and 2500K to 10,000K.

From my understanding, daylight balanced LED lights use a single COB high power LED.  Bi-colour lights use multiple smaller LED, some are cooler, some are warmer.  RGB use even more small individual LEDs and this allows for the wider colour gamut.  Generally speaking lights are more powerful when used in daylight mode vs RGB mode.

Panel LED

Early generation LED lights for photography were often a bank of individual LED (diodes). High power lights often just meant bigger dimensions and more diodes (more of the same).  Panel lights were popular for soft fill and more expensive panels sometimes came with barndoors allowing the light to be shaped.  Some of these lights had clip-on diffusion panels or warm tone panels and often used AA or NPF batteries.

Later versions were much smaller, around the size of a large iPhone. Mini LED light panels were my goto lights for overseas photoshoots with the Boling BL-P1 being my most used LED light to this day.  This light was powerful for it’s time and the articulating arm made it easy for positioning around a model.  Being RGB too I often used it as a warm light source.

COB LED

COB lights as they used to be called normally related to one high power LED fitted to the front of a studio strobe body.  Basically like a studio light shape with the standard Bowen mount for light modifiers.  Early ones were mostly mains DC power only which restricted use for location shoots.  Size and weight was also quite prohibiative compared to the pocket LED light panels.  The advantage of these big COB LED lights over small panel LED is we could use standard Bowen fit light modifiers. This gave photographers full control and we could shape the light the same as we did for studio strobes.

Finding the sweet spot

As technology advanced lights became both smaller and more powerful.  Now we have lights in the 40W-200W range that are both compact and bright enough to be useful in daylight.  This article will focus on 100W+200W LED lights but an example of a 40W LED is the excellent SmallRig 40W RGB panel LED.  This is a relatively modern LED offering many of the modern features.

Best 100W LED lights in 2026

At the time of writing we have multiple major brands making 100W LED lights plus smaller brands selling cheap copies.  Two brands you may recognise are Godox (with their ML100Bi LED) and Zhiyun who first came out with their popular Molus X100 (which was later copied by many others).

Today we have the newer Molus X100 RGB version (plus various others from the brand including their Cinekeeper line) and the Godox ML100R (the RGB version of the ML100Bi that I use).

My 100W LED lights

The first 100W light I reviewed was the Colbor 100W COB light which is similar to the original Zhyihun X100. Perhaps 18 months later I then reviewed the Zhiyun X100 RGB and Godox ML100Bi.  Coming up i’ll share a deep dive on these 3 lights and the pros and cons of each. 

Before we do that we need to talk about proprietary light mounts (for accessories).

ZY mount vs Godox ML mount vs Mini Bowen mount

At first glance the Godox ML100Bi, Zhiyun X100 RGB and Colbor 100W all look quite similar.  Each light has a smaller form factor compared to earlier generation lights which utilised the standard Bowen mount (used for studio strobes).  This new generation LED lights have a smaller light mount and compact light modifiers that look to be interchangeable.  

Proprietary LED mounts

My first oversight the looking at these new lights were the mounts.  All these LED mounts look similar but don’t be fooled as each of the main brands designed their own proprietary mount for attaching light modifiers.  The 3 lights I mention here each have unique mounts and modifiers from one light won’t fit the next.  The three most common LED mounts seem to be as follows –

• ZY mount – Zhiyun X100 + X100 RGB
• Godox ML mount – Godox ML100Bi and ML100R (RGB), Godox ML80Bi, Godox ML150Bi
• Mini Bowen mount – Colbor 100W 

Bowens mount adapters

If you’ve been using studio lighting equipment for a few years or more, whether flash or LED, you likely have some Bowen mount light modifiers.  One drawback of these new small form factor lights when they were first released is they were limited for use with only a few small light modifiers they were supplied with. 

The Colbor 100W was supplied with a small reflector (+ diffuser dome) and a mini soft box but I wasn’t able to use it with my bigger softboxes or other Bowen fit modifiers as there was no Bowens adapter. (There is now but it came later).

Thankfully most brands have developed a product line for their 100W LED lights so now we have the option of adapting larger Bowen fit modifiers via the respective converter or use their range of small dedicated light modifiers available.  Let’s talk light shapers and modifiers next.

Compact light modifiers for 100W LED

If you enjoy shaping light as much as me you’ll likely get just as excited when you see some of the new compact light shaping tools being released for these new generation 100W LED lights.  I’ll list some of the common ones and why you might use them –

• Classic metal reflector – Controls light spill and usually increases the overall power output 
• Modern mini fresnel reflectors – Works like a metal reflector but with low profile design
• Collapsible magnum style reflector – Amazing to focus the beam and throw light forward for more reach
• Barndoors – Used to shape light + control light spill (without increasing the intensty)
• Softbox – Gives a larger light source for softer quality of light 
• Gridded softbox – Works like a soft box but grid controls light spill (Great in small spaces)
• Lantern – Designed to give a soft multi-directional light source 
• Spotlight or projector snoot – Cutters let you shape the beam and insert gobos to project a light pattern

How do different light modifiers effect the overall brightness

The exposure numbers I mention will vary between products but using a Sekonic L-308 light meter I noted the various increases or decreases of light power.  In simple terms if the light modifier diffuses the light you will see a drop in power. If the light is shaped into a more concentrated beam the brightness in the centre increases.

• Classic metal reflector – Shape and internal design effects results but usually at least +1 stop brighter
• Modern mini fresnel reflectors – As above, designed to increase brightness by around +1 stops of light 
• Barndoors – Light not blocked by the doors should have the same brightness, therefore +0
• Softbox – More diffusion layers and larger softboxes might reduce power by -2, single diffusion maybe -1
• Gridded softbox – From my testing this reduced the light power still further so double diffusion+grid gave -3
• Lantern – Light is thrown everywhere plus diffused so this isn’t an efficient way to use light, expect -2/-3
• Spotlight or projector snoot – Does’t magnify the beam like fresnel/ reflector, without gobo -1, with gobo -2/3

How I use my favourite light modifiers 

If we think of camera lenses we try to select the right lens for the job.  You might go for a fast aperture lens for portraits, a long telephoto for safari and a super wide for city scapes.  I approach light modifiers in the same way.  You need the right tool for the job.  Let’s look at a few of my favourites and i’ll share example photos for each.

Spotlight projector snoots 

These are easily my most used light modifiers for indoor low light photoshoots when i’m able to carry them.  I have 3 versions for different lights that I use them all.  I say low light shoots as these modifiers do eat up a fair bit of power, especially when using the gobo inserts. 

100W is just about enough power when using gobos but to light a brighter room I prefer to use my 220W or 300W LED.  As a YouTuber that lives in the UK, it’s nice to project some fake sunlight patterns on my backdrop on cloudy days.  

For B&W photoshoots I like to work with contrast and controlled pools of light.  Being able to project the perfect window light onto a model anytime anywhere is the dream.  When i’m teaching my Leica workshops with models I explain my approach as you just need to visualise real sunlight coming through a window hitting your model, and then recreate the same with the spotlight attachment. 

You can buy bigger Bowen spotlight attachments which are supplied with a good variety of useful gobo inserts or buy the mini ones for Zhiyun ZY mount or Godox ML mount.  I love the Zhiyun attachment on my X100 RGB light for travel as it fits in my bag but I wish there was a better selection of realistic gobo stencils available. 

Here are a few photos from me using the spotlight attachments for photoshoots – the projected patterns are more obvious on some than on others.  (The next time you see me post a new YouTube video, check it out and see if you can determine where i’ve added extra lighting).

Mini fresnel reflector 

This attachment is pretty much a must have.  It can be the classic style metal reflectors or the modern mini fresnel.  Both increase the power output of your LED and if you are running them on battery power this is much more efficient.  Each attachments shape the light differently.  Some reflector designs give a wider beam angle so a broader spot of light on the wall. Others create a tighter hotspot of light which might be enough to illuminate a face but wont be suitable for full body portraits.  Play around with different attachments and see which you like the best.

When I photographed weddings in the past, if I needed to illuminate a group of people at short range in low light i’d use the LED bare.  If however I then needed to light the couples faces in a backlit sunny position outside, i’d use the reflector (or fresnel) to give me both more output (needed) and to shape the light (focused beam).  I can do this to an even greater extent by using a magnum reflector or large fresnel.  I’ll cover that next but here are some photos using the standard fresnel reflector attachments. (Note – you don’t always need to point it straight at the face. I often use it as a hair light too).

Magnum reflectors and large fresnels

Back in the days of strobes I bought a huge professional fresnel attachment for my Bowen fit studio lights.  I was chasing that famous Hollywood Glam style lighting look for might B&W work.  I love it but it was too big to ever leave the studio.  It’s all metal with like a giant bucket lid shaped slab of glass on the front.  It dwarfed all the studio lights and they clipped to the back of it.  I also have a magnum reflector from the same period. This was lightweight, Bowens fit again but still only practical for location shoots if I was taking my car (whch was rare).

Thanks to Godox we now have access to a lightweight collapsible silicone fresnel that works with the Godox ML standard reflectors.  This thing is briliant.  By added the basic fresnel + this booster (as I think of it), I get around +2 stops of light more power out the light which allows me to compete with the midday sun when working close to a model. 

This combo creates a tight beam pattern when fully extended so perfect for lighting faces, or part collapse the attachment for a slightly wider beam angle. Below is an example using the my huge glass fresnel. See the Godox section further down to see me using the new attachment.

Barndoors 

For me light it only interesting when you can shape it.  Think of a cloudy day and standing a model in the middle of a field.  The light is even on all sides creating a very flat and boring looking image.  You might be able to make it work in colour but this doesn’t excite me for black and white. I need some shadows and contrast to create shape and the sense of depth.  

Barndoors like the name suggests, are doors that clip on the front of your light so you can either shape light into a strip of light or flag it so stray light isn’t hitting your lens causing possible unwanted lens flare issues.  Zhiyun created compact magnetic barndoors for their little M20C LED light panel.  When they released their X100 RGB LED they designed the fresnel to accept magnetic attachments too.  This means if you are using the standard fresnel on the Zhiyun X100 RGB you can clip on the magnetic barndoors.  (Note – the grid from the Zhiyun M20C light will also fit).

Godox designed similar barndoors for their Godox ML mount and it attaches to the fresnel via the small integrated magnets.  I often use barndoors to create a strip of light on the models or if I don’t have the spotlight attachment, to create a beam of light across a room to mimic sunlight.  Here are some photos shot using barndoor attachments.  (Note – you can find them for Bowen mount too – often they clip onto a 7’in reflector. Mine do).

Softboxes

When models think of softboxes they usually think of studio shoots. Historically many of the softboxes were not ideally suited for location shoots as they were too much hassle to set up or pack down.  Most softboxes used the Bowen fit attachment so often had a big metal ring where you’d clip in the spokes of the light. 

As the years past companies started to design more compact softboxes that were faster to deploy and pack down.  One of the best examples of the is the SDMV Flipbox range. I bought one for my Godox AD100Pro flash but sadly it doesn’t fit any of the mentioned 100W LED lights.   (I think the plastic mount would also melt as the heat can’t escape).

With the new era of compact LED lights came compact softboxes.  Early ones were not the best.  Either too small to be worth the effort or badly made and they fell apart. (My Colbor W100 mini softbox self destructed – not the best design). 

Thankfully the new 40cm softbox for the Zhiyun X100 RGB kit and the AD-S60S softbox for the Godox ML lights are both excellent.  The 40cm version wins for portability, the 60cm is faster to setup/ pack down and due to the size gives a softer quality of light.  

If you get the Bowen adapter for any of the mentioned 100W LED lights you have access to near endless softbox options.  Every size and shape imaginable to suit all tastes. I often use my old Bowen strip box in the studio to control the light spill and to give a window light effect.  I have much bigger softboxes but you need room to set them up.  Here are some example photos where I used a softbox.

Closer look at some 100W LEDs

Let’s now take a closer look at the three 100W LED COB style lights I use and i’ll list the pros and cons of each.

Colbor W100

This was my first 100W COB light and I believe it’s inspired by the original Zhiyun X100 Molus LED.  It’s a bit unfair to compare this to the latest generation 100W LED as things have progressed somewhat since it’s release.  Either way let me list the pros and cons if you were to buy this light today.

Colbor W100 Pros

• Lightweight compact 100W LED
• Third party Mini Bowen – Bowen adapters now available
• Third party Mini Bowen light modifiers also now available
• 99W Colbor Power grip is near double the capacity of the Zhiyun X100 battery
• Often cheaper than major brands

Colbor W100 Cons

• At the time of release there were limited accessories

• The Colbor softbox didn’t last more than 12 months (occasional use only)
• Colbor is a smaller brand so it lacks the accessory ecosystem of the other lights
• Colbor W100 lacks the wireless controls of a iPhone app (unlike Godox an Zhiyun)

Portraits shot using the Colbor W100 LED

Colbor W100 YouTube video

See me using this light and example photos in the YouTube review –

Zhyiun X100 RGB

The Zhyiun X100 RGB is a recent edition to my kit but was an instant favourite for my European photoshoots where I only carry minimal kit.

Portraits shot using the Zhiyun X100 LED

Here are some example portraits where I used the Zhiyun X100 LED to enhance my lighting –

Zhiyun X100 RGB Pros

• Following the original Molus X100 LED this new improved version has all the initial issues ironed out
• The Cam Mackey edition looks super stylish if that’s important to you
• Feels solid and well made yet still a compact form factor
• Very well designed utilising the compact fresnel and magnetic barndoors
• Included battery doubles as a grip and makes this a perfect light for location shoots
• Some great light modifers available such as the spotlight and 40cm softbox
• Via the Zhiyun ZY Vega app you can control all the features wirelessly
• Bi colour gives 2500-1000K, green-magenta shift controls and colour matching via the app
• The Zhiyun X100 RGB offers full RGB controls unlike the specific Colbor and Godox units I cover

Zhiyun X100 RGB Cons

• More expensive that most other 100W LED lights
• Doesn’t have the optional of a silcone magnum style fresnel
• Some power sources and cables won’t work with the X100 (vs reduced power with the Godox)
• Smaller mounts can not be adapted to each other so I can’t use Godox attachments on the Zhiyun

Zhiyun X100 RGB YouTube video

See the compact size of this light compared to my Leica M cameras and how I use it –

Godox ML100Bi 100W LED

Another recent addition to my kit is the Godox ML100Bi 100W LED.  I’ve been loving this light too but i’ll likely use it differently to the Zhiyun X100 RGB.

Portraits shot using the Godox ML100Bi LED

Below are a selection of portraits lit with the Godox ML100Bi LED –

Godox ML100Bi 100W Pros

• Godox ML100Bi gives me around +1.3 stops more light than the Zhiyun X100 RGB
• Silicone fresnel added to ML100Bi gives +1 of light output (Overall +2 stops of light vs X100)
• Silicone fresnel for Godox ML lights gives more reach and power for location shoots (+ nice quality of light)
• Godox offer a wide range of great light modifiers for there ML mount – I enjoy the rapid deploying 60cm softbox
• The ML100Bi works with most power sources, plugs and cables even if at reduced power output (device dependant)
• Price of the Godox ML100Bi is cheaper than the Zhiyun X100 RGB
• The Godox app let’s you control the light wirelessly
• Bi colour gives 2800-6500K and green-magenta shift controls

Godox ML100Bi 100W Cons

• No battery included so it’s better suited for indoor use and running on mains DC power
• Dimensions and weight are slightly greater than the Zhiyun kit (+ Fresnel and barndoors are bulkier too)
• Smaller mounts can not be adapted to each other so I can’t use Zhiyun attachments on the Godox

Godox ML100Bi 100W YouTube video

See this video showcasing three new lights from Godox including the Godox ML100Bi 100W LED –

Summary – So what is best 100W LED to buy?

When comparing the different brands each have pros and cons so I think it will come down to budget and how you plan to use the light.  Rather than tell you what light to buy i’ll explain which lights i’ll use and why.  Let me break it down into 3 scenerios – overseas photoshoots, UK location shoots and home studio shoots.

Overseas photoshoots

If you’ve read my Travel Guide eBook I usually fly with my 18L Wotancraft backpack for 4-5 days (I fit a Wotancraft 3.5L Pilot bag inside to take out on arrival*).  This means I can only pack the essential kit.  With these restrictions imposed on myself I would pack the Zhiyun X100 RGB with battery for location shoots and a 3m USB-C power cable for unlimited usage for indoor shoots.  For extras I’d include the X100 fresnel and magnetic barndoors (I can’t carry anything more). 

For photoshoot trips I like to pack a smaller second LED so for this I’d include the Godox MA5R 5000 LED panel with integrated battery.  I’ll cover further down.

What if I have an important trip requiring more gear? Perhaps for a paid gig?  In this instance I can pay for a second carry on bag and then pack a setup more similar to what I use for UK location shoots. Let’s cover UK shoots next.

UK location shoots

Despite owning a car most of my photoshoots are in London so for this scenerio it would be whatever I can physically carry on the train.  I would likely opt for my larger LowePro 300 bag + a 7L Wotancraft Pilot bag.  For London trips I want the option to use a 2-light kit on location so this means, 2x light stands, 2x batteries (+ backups ideally), plus light modifiers. 

I would pack the Godox ML100Bi as my key light (with options of the 60cm softbox and silicone fresnel attachments).  I pair the Godox light with the Colbor PG99 power-grip and take the Smallrig 50W v-mount battery as a backup. 

My second light (to use as a hair light or rim light outside) is the Zhiyun X100 RGB with basic fresnel and barndoors.  If I’m planning to shoot indoors I add the Zhiyun X100 spotlight attachment to create some interesting light patterns on the background.  

Home studio shoots

When i’m at home I tend to make the most of the lights I have and often run a 3-light setup (or even more sometimes).  I’d use the same kit as mentioned for my UK location shoots plus the Colbor W100 LED.  Being in the studio I’d make full use of proper C-stands instead of the lightweight Ulanzi stands that I travel with. 

I tend to leave a Bowen adapter on the Colbor W100 then attach Bowen light modifiers such as softboxes or beauty dishes.  The slim form factor lets me boom this light overhead for a top light.  The X100 tends to be attached to a spotlight and the Godox ML100Bi works as my key light with either the softbox or silicone fresnel attached. 

For a 2 softbox setup (+ top light) I add a 4th light to illuminate the background. I can use either a 220W or 300W LED attached to a Bowen mount spotlight to project a light pattern. (See more on high power LEDs later in this article).  In the studio I can also make use of my LED tube lights – see that YouTube video for more info and example photos.

Travel hacks for 100W LED lights

As someone that travels (flys) with a laptop I always need a high capacity power brick (plug) and USB-C cable.  By using the same cable and plug for my 100W light it means I don’t need to carry an additional power cable such as the supplied heavy duty mains DC cable. 

If all my planned photos are inside (say during the winter months in Poland) I can even skip the battery for an even smaller and more compact setup.  As the X100 RGB LED is so lightweight I can attach it to a super clamp and mount the light to a door frame or roof beam.  This removes the necessity to always carry a light stand if I know I’ll be indoors with structures to mount to. (On the https://mrleica.com/kitlist/ page I list some of my travel kit lists).

Is 100W enough power?

How much light needed will depends how big a space you are trying to light.  I tend to shoot half body portraits (or closer) in confined spaces so for me 100W works fine.  If you are trying to light a full body images backlit by the sun i’d recommend a 200W-300W LED.  Equally if you love to use huge light modifiers, again you’d be better with more than 100W.  Let’s cover some ~200W LED lights next.

Best 200W LED light for portraits?

I have two lights that are around 200W output. The latest Zhiyun X200 RGB which is 200W and the older SmallRig RC 220B LED which I’ve owned for a longer time. Let’s cover the pros and cons of each together with YouTube videos and some sample photos.

Portraits using the SmallRig RC 220B COB LED

Here are a few example photos lit with the SmallRig RC 200B light –

SmallRig RC 220B LED Pros

• Various power options – DC mains, V-mount + NPF batteries (via adapter plate)
• Robust construction with simple controls
• Built-in handle to tilt the light and mount umbrellas
• Native Bowen mount (accepts all Bowen light modifiers)
• Supplied reflector can be used with other Bowen LED to boost output

SmallRig RC 220B LED Cons

• Smaller than previous models but bigger than the Zhiyun X200
• Bi-color rather than RGB
• NPF battery plate not included

SmallRig RC 220B LED YouTube video

See me using my SmallRig RC 220B COB LED on YouTube –

Zhiyun X200 RGB LED

A new light for me for 2026 is the Zhiyun X200 RGB LED. This light does everything – inside, outside, overseas photoshoots, small setup, big light modifiers. See some example photos from the last few months below.

Portraits shot using the Zhiyun X200 LED

All the portraits shared are lit using a combination of available light plus the Zhiyun X200 LED. Sometimes I use the X200 RGB as the key light, other times as a rim light or for fill. (The YouTube video linked below shows how I use the light + visit Patreon for BTS photoshoot videos).

Zhiyun X200 LED power solutions

Similar to the Zhiyun X100 RGB light covered above, you can power the light with different sources, both battery and mains DC power. Depending on your setup you’re get differing amounts of wattage (output). Let me give you a few examples for mains and battery powered.

Main DC power (using different adapters)

• Apple small USBC charger – 10% max output
• Anker 100W USBC adapter (+ cable) – 50% max output
• Vention 140W USBC adapter (+ cable) – 70% max output
• Zhiyun X200 DC power adapter (+ cable) – 100% max output

Battery power

• 99W Non-V mount battery – 50% max output
• 50W SmallRig V-mount battery – 75% max output
• 99W V-mount battery – 75% max output
• 2x 99W V batteries in X200 battery mount – 100% max output

Power conclusion

From my testing the Zhiyun X200 RGB light will give you 50% of the adapter/ battery maximum when using a 240W USB-C cable. A 100W adapter gives 50% power for example and 99W battery source connected via USB-C will also only give 50% power. V-mount batteries attached via the V-mount bracket are more efficient giving 75% of 200W even from a 50W battery. (Note – all power percentages quoted are of 200W so 50% = 100W output).

Zhiyun X200 RGB LED pros

• Smallest 200W LED – Compact unit, small enough for travel
• Native Bowen mount means no need for adapters
• Compact fresnel (included) makes for a perfect travel light setup
• Professional grade build quality, should last for years
• Compatible with the ZY Vega app – Can control from your phone
• Standard V-Mount battery compatible – doesn’t need specific battery like X100
• Twin battery bracket with cable means you can mount lower on the light stand
• Full RGB controls + green/ magenta shift – can colour match other light sources
• High quality accessories – Softbox is well made and sets up/ collapses quickly

Zhiyun X200 RGB LED cons

• The X200 unit nor the included bracket have an umbrella mount
• Zhiyun lights are not the cheapest but your can save 15% using the links below
• Compared to the X100, the X200 is bulkier and heavier
• Maximum output with 1 battery is 75% (Need 2 batteries for the full 200W)
• Batteries not included – You’ll need like 2x Smallrig 99W V-mount batteries
• 200W sounds like 2x more power than 100W but it’s only 1 stop brighter
• The X100 mini spot projector doesn’t fit the X200 Bowen mount

15% off Zhiyun products (Only for July 2026)

For July 2026 use the links below together with discount code *ZHIYUNMM10* and save 15%. I’ve linked my light + softbox below but the code should work for the X100 and other items too. Just enter their store via these links then try adding other items to your basket.

Zhiyun on Amazon

• X200 RGB：https://geni.us/AMZ-X200RGB-YT-Matt-MY
• Softbox：https://geni.us/AMZ-Softbox-60D-G1-MY

Official Zhiyun Store (free shipping)

• X200 RGB：https://geni.us/X200RGB-Matt
• Softbox：https://geni.us/Softbox60cm-Matt

Zhiyun X200 RGB LED YouTube video

To see how I use the Zhiyun X200 RGB light for my model portraits check out the YouTube video review. I show portrait lighting using 1 and 2 lights and with various light modifiers –

Need EVEN MORE power output?

200W is a good amount of power even on a sunny day but let’s say you’re trying to push a light to the limits and use a LED in a giant softbox in midday sun to light full body portraits. For this you’re going to need more watts. I have one light that is outside the scope of this 100W+200W LED lights review but is still worth mentioning.

Neewer FS300c 300W LED

If you don’t mind a big unit and need more than 200W you might also consider the Neewer FS300c 300W LED. This could be the best max power for the money ratio and it’s fine for studio use. Main DC power-only means it’s not suited to location shoots (unless you have some power socket in the back of your car or truck). This YouTube video shows the 300W light in action together with a Bowen fit gobo projector shoot.

Portraits with the Neewer FS300c 300W LED

Here are a few sample photos from the YouTube video captured using the Neewer FS300c 300W LED.

Lights categorised by indoor or outdoor

We’ve mentioned quite a few LED lights already. Let’s now group them into best suited to indoor, best suited for outdoor, or can do both.

• Colbor W100 – Inside or outside (Battery or DC cable)
• Godox ML100Bi – Inside or outside (Battery or DC cable)
• Zhiyun X100 RGB – Inside or outside (Battery or DC cable)
• Zhiyun X200 RGB – Inside or outside (Battery or DC cable)
• Smallrig RC 220 – Mostly inside (But can use v-mount batteries)
• Neewer FS300c – Inside (No battery option)

What about a smaller secondary LED?

Again outside the 100W-200W scope but I mentioned for my overseas photoshoots that I like to carry a second smaller LED as a backup.  For a two light setup I usually carry one 100W high power LED such as the mentioned Zhiyun 100W RGB plus a smaller lower power LED as a hair light or rim light.

Zhiyun M20C LED

For my secondary LED I used to pack the X100’s smaller sibling light, the Zhiyun M20C.  The M20C LED is magnetic so these are great stuck to metal posts and objects and they come supplied with the same magnetic barn doors (and grid) which are interchangeable with the Zhiyun X100 RGB. I have two M20C LED and they’re brilliant, especially in low light.

New backup LED light from Godox

Godox recently released their Godox MA5R 5000 powerbank with integrated LED so this might now replace my Zhiyun M20C mentioned above.  It depends what you need. The Zhiyun M20C is magnetic and accepts mini light modifiers, the Godox MA5R 5000 is multi-purpose and more than just a light.

Godox MA5R 5000 LED

The Godox MA5R 5000 has so many features it should probably be called a fully functional LED light panel with integrated powerbank, not a powerbank with a light. Not only can I use this as a hair light or rim light for photoshoots, I can also use it to charge my Leica SL2-S via a USB-C cable (or my iPhone via the built-in MagSafe charging option). 

Even better, the Godox MA5R 5000 is compatible with the Godox app so if i’ve got the light boomed up overhead I can remotely control the brightness and colour temperature from my phone.  A brilliant piece of kit that I now leave in my day bag.  See more info on the Godox MA5R 5000 LED in the Godox ML100Bi video shared above.

ML100Bi alternative lights from Godox

Before we finish I should mention a few alternatives.  First if we look at Godox.  The Godox ML100Bi is one of a series of lights, each more suited to specific tasks.

Godox ML100Bi vs Godox ML80Bi vs Godox ML150Bi

If you do any research on the Godox ML100Bi you’ll see that Godox make 3 lights with a similar name.  If you want the smallest form factor look at the mentioned Godox ML100Bi that I use.  To recap the ML100Bi is supplied without a battery and is designed to run via DC power or with standard V-mount batteries / NPF batteries for a portable lighting solution.  When indoors I run my 100W LED lights from DC power because then I have unlimited time and don’t need to worry about a battery lasting all day.

If you want a complete lighting package from Godox (with battery included) you might prefer the Godox ML80Bi.  I mention it here as interestingly, despite the name, this 80W LED is rumoured to generate more output than the Godox ML100Bi when combined with certain reflectors.  The ML80Bi light has more of a block form factor vs the slimmer Godox ML100Bi but if you want a complete unit for run-and-gun lighting (and with no cables) this might be the best of the Godox units mentioned.

The Godox ML150Bi overlaps both the ML80Bi and ML100Bi so I’ll give it a quick mention. Form factor wise it’s more similar to the ML80Bi (a similar size without a battery) and like the ML100Bi it comes without a battery.  The Godox ML150Bi comes with optional adapter plates that allow you to clip a V-mount battery or two NPF batteries to the back of the unit.  With the Godox ML100Bi unit you get a battery plate grip handle where you mount your battery to the grip rather than to the light itself. 

All 3 Godox units accept the same Godox ML accessories and light modifiers so if you have multiple lights your can share your mods between them.  As their names suggest, all 3 Godox lights are bi-colour giving you temperatures between 2800K and 8000K.

If you need RGB look at the Godox ML100R – similar to the ML100Bi but with RGB function so more similar to the Zhiyun X100 RGB.

Alternative lights from Zhiyun

If you prefer the Zhiyun brand we have various options.  We have the mentioned 20W M20C LED with integrated battery, the mentioned Molus X100 original (and RGB version).  If you want more power we have the Zhiyun 200W X200 LED that comes with a standard Bowen mount rather than the smaller ZY mount (Bi-color or RGB).  This is only a handful of the Zhiyun lights available so visit the Zhiyun website for more and for their Cinekeeper range.

Finally what about cheap Chinese copies?

If you start searching for 100W lights online you might soon spot some very similar looking lights from unknown brands, often made in China and listed on Ali Express.  If you don’t mind the gamble i’m sure some of these lights are fine to use but just check what mount they come with so you can search for light modifiers to fit.  My Patreon buddy Tobi has a copy of the Xhiyun X100 and he seems pretty happy with them.  (You can find him on Substack if you want to check out his work).

Wrap-up

So i’ve covered many lights and you’re now probably more confused that before you read this post.  For me, I would pick your lights based on budget, size, battery options and light modifiers available.  Similar to photography, I think a good photographer picks the camera that allows them to use their lens of choice (not camera first).  Light is light so decide how you want to shape it, pick your mods first and work backwards.  That would be my approach anyway.

Portrait lighting workshops

If you’ve already got all the gear but don’t know how to put it to use contact me to arrange a workshop together.  The majority of what i’m asked to teach is normally lighting when we are working with models.

Want to use your lights but can’t?

Another scenero might be that you have the lights but no one to photograph.  Check out my Model Photography eBook to learn how to find models in your area.  Then you can finally put your lights to good use.  Models love great lighting so it’s an easy way to put a smile on their face (and make them want to come back for more!)

Links to some of the mentioned products in this article

I’ve mentioned a lot of products in this article. Let me list the main ones and includes product links if you want to check them out in more detail on Amazon.  (These are affiliate links so if you buy anything via a link any commission I receive goes towards running this blog. Thanks).

• Zhiyun X200 RGB kit (or Zhiyun website)
• Zhiyun X100 RGB kit (or Zhiyun website)
• Zhiyun spotlight attachment (for X100) (or Zhiyun website)
• Zhiyun softbox (Bowen fit)(for X200) (or Zhiyun website)
• Godox ML100Bi 100W LED kit
• Godox softbox (Godox mount)
• Godox MA5R 5000 powerbank LED
• Colbor W100 LED
• Smallrig 50W V-mount battery
• Smallrig 99W V-mount battery
• Ulanzi MT-79 (2m 1kg limit travel light stand)
• 140W USB-C power brick
• 240W 3M USB-C cable
• Super clamp (to mount lights anywhere)
• Wotancraft camera bags 

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Add your email to receive the free Leica newsletter and follow on YouTube for future videos. To support my work consider joining Patreon or visit my Print Store and hope to meet you at one of my Leica Workshops.

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