Leica IIIF Portraits (90yr Old Camera Photoshoot)
Coming up are Leica IIIF portraits from my photoshoot in London. To be specific, my camera is a 1934 Leica III (Model F) black paint and not the popular silver chrome 1950s Leica IIIf. Ever wondered how the photos will look from a 90 year old Leica camera? Let’s find out!
Leica IIIF vs Leica IIIf
The Leica camera naming can be slightly confusing as the early 1930s vintage Leica cameras were called Model A through to Model G and the later Leica Barnack cameras were called Leica IIIa through to Leica IIIg. The overlap model is the Leica III Model G which is also known as the Leica IIIa. The camera used for the photos in this article is the 1934 black paint Leica III (Model F).
Features of a Leica III (Model F)
With each new Leica Barnack camera iteration a few extra features were added. By 1934 the Leica III (Model F) has most of the features of all later Leica iii models but with a few exceptions. Similar features include –
- Built in coupled rangefinder with 1.x5 magnification
- Separate viewfinder and rangefinder windows
- 50mm viewfinder (without frame lines)
- Adjustable diopter on rangefinder window
- Shutter speeds from bulb – 1/500
- Slow shutter speed dial giving 1sec – 1/20
- Camera strap lugs (absent on early models)
Drawbacks of a Leica IIIF
Unlike the later models the Leica III Model F lacks a few nice upgrades that can help with speed of use, focus accuracy and creativity.
- Combined split viewfinder / rangefinder window (faster)
- No parallax correction (Only found in the Leica IIIg model)
- Max of 1/500 shutter speed (Not 1/1000 in later models)
Photoshoot with a Leica III camera
When you see this title you might think well first of all I don’t have a model to work with. If you are a new reader you may have missed my free model photography eBook which explains how I find models to work with.
If you already have this book you might say, but Matt, you promised us a full model photography eBook detailing every aspect from start to finish. This book is getting closer to completion. If you follow me here I will announce it in the free monthly newsletter.
What is possible with a vintage camera
The Leica III Model F is my latest camera purchase thanks to a listing I spotted on eBay. I love the challenge of using old technology to try to make some decent images. My goal was to arrange a photoshoot at the first opportunity and that just happened to be a Leica workshop in London.
Leica workshop in London
The day after I bought my Leica IIIF a photographer contacted me via this blog to request one of my usual 1:1 private Leica workshops in London. His request was to master his Leica M3, Leica M6 and digital Leica M11.
The main focus was improve the speed and accuracy of his focusing so I suggested we hire a model for the afternoon. As luck would have it a model friend then contacted me asking if I was free on Saturday to shoot in London so she could get some nice photos before she left the UK.
Leica+Model Workshops
Hiring a model
I cover how to hire models in my full eBook to follow but in brief, at the time of writing it costs approximately £50ph to hire a model in London. For full time models the income they receive from photographers for photoshoots pays the bills. The problem full time models often face is many of their customers are new photographers that are still learning. This means they receive money but often not usable photos to update their portfolio.
As such full time models will reach out to professional photographers they know to agree a collaboration shoot. The mutual goal is to create some strong images that they can both use in their portfolios. It’s in your interest to creative good images as if the model likes them they might reach out to you next time. See a previous photoshoot image below that I shot for the same model.
Best lens for Leica IIIF
If you’ve used Leica III cameras before you’ll know you can mount pretty much any Leica screw mount lens. I’ve reviewed many of these lens options in varying focal lengths for YouTube. See my full lens reviews section.
I was especially interested in a few specific lenses that performed well in my recent lens test for YouTube. As per that video I wanted to use the lenses with the same 135mm lens hood.
Below are the lenses I packed for the shoot. I’ve done full reviews on each of these lens, see links.
- Leitz Elmar 5cm f3.5 LTM (Nickel uncoated) – YouTube
- Leitz Elmar 9cm f4 LTM – YouTube
- Voigtlander Heliar 50mm f3.5 LTM (collapsible) – YouTube
- Nikkor S.C 50mm f1.4 (via Amedeo adapter) – YouTube
I wanted mostly 50mm lenses (including one fast lens for low light) plus a 90mm lens for compression. I also wanted to see what I could achieve from the original 5cm Elmar lens which is the supplied lens for many Leica III cameras.
Common problems with Leica III camera
If like me, you just treated yourself to a vintage Leica III camera first it is important to put a test roll through the camera to check everything is working as it should. Common issues to look out for can include (from experience of using quite a few of these cameras) –
- Inaccurate shutter speeds (Often slower that marked)
- Pinholes in shutter curtain (Needs a new shutter curtain)
- Misaligned rangefinder (Photos not in focus)(See below)
It’s worth remembering how old these cameras are and a lack of use can often result in slow or sticky shutter speeds (especially the slow speeds). Lenses that come with camera may be gummed up with stiff aperture controls and focusing.
The worst issue for me is needing a new shutter curtain. This photo shows an image from a Leica ic camera that looked mint on the outside but needed a new shutter before I could use it.
How to calibrate your Leica III camera at home
If you missed my recent video I’m now very satisfied as I can recalibrate my own Leica III cameras with two simple screwdrivers. Before any planned important photos (such as this photoshoot for me) check your Leica III camera rangefinder calibration is accurate to avoid disappointment.
Leica IIIF photoshoot day (aka. Leica workshop)
The model met us in the afternoon and we started our photos outside. I was interested to see the results of pairing the 1934 Leica IIIF with the above mentioned lenses. This meant as usual I was testing on the job for my own interest but that’s my usual approach.
All photos shared were captured with available light only. If you’ve never seen my 100+ model photography tutorial videos on Patreon I like to keep things pretty simple and always put light before location.
I’ll cover everything I consider when it comes to a photoshoot in the full eBook to follow but the main one for me is lighting and then making sure the model looks good.
Film choices for the photoshoot
The weather forecast for our photoshoot in London was very mixed so I planned to expect bad weather. I rated my bulk rolled (now expired) Kodak Double-X 5222 @800 (so pushed one stop to my usual ISO 400).
Later in the day I leant my digital Leica M10 to my student as his Leica M11 battery died. That meant I was then only shooting film so my one roll of Kodak XX ran out. Thankfully he gave me a fresh roll of Ilford FP4+ to use so I rated that at ISO 200. (I wasn’t sure if it would push well to ISO 400 so I didn’t try).
Kodak Double-X + Leica III portraits
Here are some Leica IIIF portraits captured with Kodak Double-X film, outside with available light only. 50mm I think.
Cold wet, and windy weather.. in June
After the first hour our model was noticeably freezing so we retreated to a nearby cafe for hot drinks and warmth. As we did the heavens opened again so it was perfect timing.
If you’ve followed me for a long time I’m not one to stop shooting so after getting hot drinks we continued to shoot. We now had limited light with the overcast grey cloud conditions outside so I used my fastest lens and took photos at 1/60 or slower.
Thankfully later the sun came out again as you can see from the BTS photos shot at the end.
Ilford FP4+ portraits with the Leica IIIF
Once inside the film in the camera was now the fresh Ilford FP4+ so I was limited to ISO 200 (and I developed the film for longer). I feel the fresh film gave cleaner crisper looking images but you decide. (The expired Double-X looks cleaner at ISO 400 I feel, based on previous work).
Join the family!
How to develop film negatives at home?
When it comes to black and white film developing at home everyone has their favourite developer. My favourite film developer is Kodak Xtol (Thankfully back in stock after being absent for a few years) with a dash of Rodinal. I add the Rodinal with the goal to increase acutance. My current developer preference is 1:4 Xtol diluted with tap water, tap water as a stop bath and Kodak T-Max fixer.
How to scan film negatives with a Leica camera?
In the past I have always been happy with scanning film via my Epson v800 flatbed scanner. My only complaint was it was too slow and if I shoot large volumes of film it can take the best part of a day processing the negatives afterwards. That pushed me to digitising my film negatives with a digital camera.
I didn’t want the faff of manually blowing dust off a film negative holder so I looked for an all-in-one solution. The Valoi Easy35 is a light source and film negative holder combined that clips onto the front of your digital camera setup. I use my digital Leica CL camera for film scanning. See this video for my full setup.
Best lens to use with the Valoi Easy35 scanner?
I tried both my Leica Elmarit-R 60mm f2.8 Macro lens and Nikkor 55mm f2.8 Micro lens for scanning. Both lenses will require extension tubes to fill a full frame image area. I use my APS-C Leica CL for scanning and a small extension tube now allows me to get full 24MP scans from each negative (with no wasted border area).
All images shared from the Leica IIIF photoshoot were scanned with this method at f5.6 on the Nikkor 55mm f2.8 Micro lens.
How did I edit my B&W film scans in Lightroom?
A few of you have already reached out to me asking how I edit my film scans in Lightroom. I do a two step process but I’ll list all steps
- Import digital DNG photos of your negatives into Lightroom
- Apply the new MrLeica invert preset (1)
- Export inverted images as full size TIF files
- Re-import the new inverted TIF photos
- Apply the new MrLeica edit film after inversion preset (2)
- Fine tune individual scans to taste
- Export images full size to share on social media
- Edit favourites further in Photoshop to taste (add border etc)
MrLeica presets for B&W film scans (NEW)
As requested, I’ve now made my MrLeica film processing presets available to download. Please note, every film stock, every lens, every subject and the light on the day will be different so please don’t expect a 1 click fix-all. These presets get me 90% there and then I adjust as needed for the desired look and contrast.
The new MrLeica preset pack includes one inversion preset and two film edit presets.
**All small size film scans shared in this article were edited with the MrLeica B&W film scan presets only. The full size images shared were processed further in Photoshop to add the border etc.
Leica M10 portraits (digital)
I pay models with digital photos so here is a small sample of digital test shots using my Leica M10. When compared next to the film images to me they look a too sterile and smooth. Digital is of course much easier but I’m trying to create unique art not easy snapshots.
*Leica M10 portraits are quick Lightroom edit – M10 DNG + MrLeica Preset applied
Printing your 35mm film negatives in the darkroom
Scanning film (digitising) is a great way to share your film images to a wider audience (for me anyway with YouTube etc). For me however, the fun really begins in the darkroom. My goal for every photoshoot is to create at least one decent image that I can then look to print in the darkroom. Thanks to our great model I feel I have several I’d like to play around with and print from this session.
MrLeica one-off darkroom prints
If you’re a Patreon you’ll know I give you access to my limited run model photography girls on film photobooks. What I want to do next is for each great film negative I want to print two images with the idea to make one available to purchase for anyone interested. Please contact me if interested for more information.
Conclusion – Is the 1930s Leica IIIF the best choice?
So after a day of trying to photograph a model with the 1930s Leica IIIF camera what are my thoughts. I love the look and sound of these early black paint models compared to the later silver chrome versions.
If the tool and experience is more important than the final image I would highly recommend these early models. If you shoot static subjects like travel photos or landscapes again I will not hesitate to take this camera. For model photography however you can make life much easier for yourself.
Same lens but faster camera = More keepers
As we know it’s the lens (+ film) that makes the image but you need a camera body to give you the speed and accuracy of focusing. If we are sticking with Leica rangefinder cameras there are three steps of easier approaches.
Later 1950s Leica III cameras – Leica IIIf and Leica IIIg
First. During the 1950s the Leica III cameras moved from two separate round viewfinder/ rangefinder windows to a single split window. I have this on my Leica IIf (stripped back Leica IIIf) and my Leica IIIg. With the windows close together it is faster to quickly focus compose shoot before the model (or you) move.
Want a bigger viewfinder (+ 90mm frame lines?)
Second. The next step “up” is the Leica IIIg that gives you a bigger brighter viewfinder with built in 90mm frameline and parallax correction. This is the most advanced and last Leica III camera.
Happy to spend more money? Leica M cameras
Third. If you want an even easier experience to the Leica IIIg the next step would be to look at the Leica M3. The M3 is the best Leica camera viewfinder ever made for brightness and accuracy.
Leica M cameras give you the advantage of a single combined rangefinder viewfinder window for the ultimate speed of use. They also open up the lens options to all M mount lenses in addition to Leica screw mount lenses via an adapter.
The Leica M3 is my favourite Leica camera for portraits but it’s nice to use these older Leica iii models too to keep things interesting.
Are you a 35mm lens shooter?
If you prefer to use 35mm lenses to 50mm there is a strong argument that you might prefer screw mount cameras that come with a built in 35mm viewfinder. For me the camera that springs to mind is my vintage Canon L3 rangefinder camera. This is often easier than using a Leica III camera with additional coldshoe finder.
Lost without a light meter?
If you are coming from modern digital cameras you might be completely lost if you don’t have a light meter. The easy solution is to use a handheld light meter like a Sekonic or a small clip on cold shoe light meter as seen below.
If you want a Leica screw mount camera with a built in light meter you might enjoy the Voigtlander Bessa R.
Leica III vs Voigtlander Bessa R
Both Leica III cameras and a Voigtlander Bessa R will take identical photos but each have their pros and cons.
Reasons to buy a Leica IIIF (or similar)
- Supreme build quality – Cameras from 1930s still going strong
- The Leica look and feel – Solid, premium and iconic
- Accurate rangefinder (EBL 58.5)
- Super compact design
Voigtlander Bessa R benefits
The Voigtlander Bessa R is a much more modern camera released in 2001, some 70 years after some of the early Leica III cameras. As such you get a lot more features which include –
- Fast SLR style hinge door film loading
- Combined viewfinder/ rangefinder window
- Built in light meter
- Functional hotshoe not coldshoe (so can fire flash easily)
- Lightweight (more plastic feeling) design
- 35mm, 50mm, 75mm 90mm framelines
- 1/125 maximum flash sync speed
- 1/2000 maximum shutter speed
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See more MrLeica portraits with Leica III cameras
For more of my portraits with Leica III cameras see this article next –
I do especially treasure my black Leica III Model F; if you Google Leica III Model F, my exact camera body may well be the one that appears, photographed during its earlier life in Poland! And just for aesthetic giggles, I sometimes mount the brass and black “50mm Elmar f/3.5” that came on an old Russian counterfeit “Leica,” which is actually a Zorki, broken, poor thing. But the lens looks period, even if it lacks the patina that 90 years would have put on it.
The thing is, the Zorki “Elmars'” quick recognition feature is the infinity lock at 10:00 O’clock. And your 50mm appears to have that orientation. Are we certain that your Elmar is real, not counterfeit? In all respect for your knowledge and generosity, I mean this in no disparaging way, but is that a real Leica lens?
In any case, I shall shoot a Native American powwow with my III(F) and Leica II, and keep you in high esteem Sir.
Thanks Joe, and great you have this beautiful cameras too. Elmar’s come in different “flavours” depending on the period. Mine is the matching lens from my Leica I Model C from 1931 but I have 2 others also that camera with cameras. I have Industar copies too which are easy to recognise but not the Zorki one. Like you I like the look of the older looking lenses like the Nickel Elmar in this example. Cheers Matt
I have an 1935 Leica IIIa and cherish it much. I almost use it daily, loving its small size. My Canon IID2 and L2 could be more practical but are heavier and a little bigger.
I use either an 1951 Summaron 35mm f/3.5 or an 1937 Summar 50mm f/2. I am really surprised by the Summar quality either in b&w or colour.
I also have an Industar-22 (the Eastern Elmar …) and a Jupiter-12 which probably is a better 35mm lens and a f/2.8 at that (not to forget its unusual shape …).
Enjoyed reading your appraisal of the Leica 111 circa 1934. Please do not refer to it as a 111F or 111f.
It’s a 111. Most collectors and users don’t use the model designation, that was the factory way. I have a 1929 black model 1. that my boyfriend bought me for Christmas a few years ago. I’ve used it a fair bit with its fixed lens. It’s a very useful camera to slip into a pocket with lens retracted. I unscrew the hood and that goes in another pocket.
Provide the aperture is well stopped down, even architectural shots are fine. I bought a Zeiss range finder in a small leather case and it’s black like my camera. However, unlike the Leitz one it doesn’t attach to the accessories shoe. No strap lugs. Been tempted to buy an old leather case to have it hung from my neck. Have you reviewed the R8? I use three professionally.