Nikon F3T vs Nikon F3 vs Nikon FE2
If you saw my recent Nikon F3 article you will have seen my list of advantages, Nikon F3 vs. Leica M. What about comparing a Nikon F3 vs Nikon FE2? I take both cameras to Lisbon for some street photography/ travel photography so we can find out (Video and full res photos below). Nikon F3 vs Nikon F3T “Titan” (Titanium)? I ordered a Nikon F3T to compare to my standard Nikon F3 (which is actually a Nikon F3HP!) (I’ll explain!)

Lots to cover!
There is a lot to cover in this article so it might be a long one. Perhaps grab a chair and your favourite drink! If you are here to find specific information on a particular camera I will break the post down as follows:
- Nikon F3 vs Nikon FE2
- Lisbon trip using 2 Nikon cameras
- Best lenses for Nikon F3 / FE2
- Nikon DW-3 waist level viewfinder
- My Nikon F3HP vs Nikon F3
- Nikon F3T vs Nikon F3
- Considering Nikon FM3a vs Nikon FE2

(1) Nikon F3 vs Nikon FE2
(1.1) Benefits of the Nikon FE2 vs Nikon F3?
From all the positive comments after my Nikon F3 YouTube video, there is no lack of support for the F3. That being said, for my needs I think the Nikon FE2 was the better camera for the Lisbon trip. Let’s first cover some of the benefits of using a Nikon FE2 vs Nikon F3
(1.2) Reasons to buy a Nikon FE2?
- The Nikon FE2 needle display lightmeter is nicer and easier to use than the little LCD display in the Nikon F3. It’s why I pick up the Nikon FE2 and not my full manual and slightly lighter Nikon FM2n camera which has a LED lightmeter display. (If you shoot in the dark most of the time you will prefer a LED or LCD).
- 1/4000 max shutter speed. Useful if you loaded ISO 400 film on a sunny day and/ or if you use fast aperture lenses without ND filters. The Nikon F3 has a max shutter speed of 1/2000 so still faster than the 1/1000 of many analogue rangefinder cameras (such as Leica M film cameras).
- 1/250 max flash sync speed. Useful for when I shoot outdoor portraits with flash. The Nikon F3 has a slow max flash sync of only 1/80.
- The Nikon FE2 like other FM/FE models has a standard hotshoe that works with the latest Godox/ Nikon flash triggers and flash units. The Nikon F3 requires a special adapter to use with flash that fits over the film rewind crank.
- Smaller and lighter. (Nikon FE2 = 550g / Nikon F3 = 715g / Nikon F3HP = 760g)
- Specific to my cameras, my Nikon FE2 has a K2 screen which is very easy to focus. My Nikon F3 has an E screen which is much more difficult to see accurately.

(1.3) Common features of the Nikon F3 and Nikon FE2
Both Nikon SLR cameras give you benefits over shooting with a Leica M camera. Some of the obvious ones are as follows:
- Built in lightmeter (not found in many Leica M cameras)
- Self timer option (not found on all Leica M cameras)
- Double exposure mode
- Fast film loading
- Aperture priority mode
- Robust design (OK if get knocked)
- Cheaper prices
- SLR lenses often focus closer than 0.7-1.0m

(1.4) Reasons to buy a Nikon F3 camera vs FE2
For me, the main reason was the option of a waist level viewfinder but these cameras are well regarded and offer many features. The main advantages that I can think of to buy a Nikon F3 vs Nikon FE2 are:
- 100% viewfinder coverage (vs. 93% on FM3a)
- Interchangeable viewfinder options like DW-4 (vs. fixed)
- True mirror lock-up
- Some same more durable
- Better for glasses wearers (with HP finder)
- Many available used so cheaper
- Can mount non-Ai lenses
- LCD lightmeter visible in the dark
- Nikon MD4 motor drive said to be better than MD12
(1.5) Nikon F3 vs Nikon FE2 – Summary
In summary, I think many users would agree to buy each camera for the following key reasons:
- Nikon F3: For glasses wearers and everyone not using flash (and don’t mind a larger/ heavier camera)
- Nikon FE2: For people who use flash a lot and enjoy a smaller camera (*Also consider the Nikon FM3a)
(1.6) Why I bought the Nikon F3
See my Nikon F3 articles for full details –
(2) Lisbon on film (with 2 Nikon cameras)
(2.1) Not my usual Leica cameras
If you’re a regular reader of this blog you’ll know that I often shoot with Leica cameras. To mix things up a little I packed two Nikon film cameras for Lisbon. I was keen to use my recently purchased Nikon F3 camera and it makes sense to carry one set of lenses to fit all camera bodies. That’s why I took the Nikon F3 + Nikon FE2 and one set of lenses for them. (I talk about my lens choice further down).

(2.2) Black and white film with Nikon FE2
To keep things simple I decided to shoot only black and white film in my Nikon FE2. My film choice was what I had in the fridge. Two rolls of Ilford Pan 400 which I feel is a mid range film. Not premium film like Kodak T-Max 400 nor the cheapest such as Fomapan 100 (Historically). The results it gives are mid tier I think and I happily shoot with it. Here are a few full res sample photos. (Film is developed at home with Adox XT-3 and scanned with an Epson V800 scanner)(Click any image for full details).
(2.3) Colour film with Nikon F3
For colour film I used my Nikon F3 camera plus the Nikon DW-3 waist level viewfinder. I used some cold stored but expired film I’ve had since new, Kodak Portra 160, Kodak Pro Image 100 and Kodak Ektar 100. When I scan C41 colour negative film (now lab developed as small quantities) it’s almost always a huge disappointment compared to my usual black and white films. Occasionally I might get nice colours off the scanner but to the most part I find there is a very fine line between arty retro colour Lo-Fi film scans and just complete junk.
I was happy with these colour tram shots but not many others. (I keep telling myself I will go to black and white only film but there is always that draw that I could get that one magical shot by using colour film.
When it comes to colour film my preference would be E6 slide films but they are so expensive now I can’t bring myself to spending that kind of money. I would very happily shoot Kodak Ektachrome or Fuji Provia again for example but I feel they both work best in mixed lighting. When colour film is good it’s very very good but for me that’s not very often.
(2.4) See YouTube for more Lisbon film photos
During my three days in Lisbon I shot 5 rolls of film. Watch this POV style YouTube video from Lisbon to see most of my film photos and how I captured them.
(2.5) Why I loved shooting with 2 Nikon cameras
I’m used to Leica rangefinder cameras and delayed gratification when shooting them. You have to visualise your final image as you can’t see the depth real time in the viewfinder. When using an SLR camera it immerses you into the scene at that moment. You feel like you’re there living it with the people you are photographing. I can only describe it as being similar to the view of looking through a Hasselblad 500 series camera. (It’s very enjoyable if you’ve never tried it).
Long lenses can be great fun when used on SLR cameras. As you probably know, the longest lens for Leica M film cameras is 135mm. Let’s talk about lenses next.

(3) Best lenses for Nikon F3
(3.1) Nikkor lenses
Now I must point out that i’ve not used every lens for Nikon F mount but I try to buy many of the best lenses for my needs. Of the lenses that I own these were my best lenses for the Nikon F3 / Nikon FE2 combo for the Lisbon trip. In no particular order let’s go through them.
(3.2) Nikkor 180mm f2.8 AF-D lens
For Nikon F mount there is a huge range of long lenses available. Perhaps one of my favourites is the relatively compact Nikkor 180mm f2.8 ED AF-D autofocus lens. This lens is super smooth in manual focus mode and reminds me of the fast less dampened focusing of my massive Nikkor 200mm f2 Ai-s lens. The 180mm lens is smaller than the Nikkor 200mm f4 Micro lens that I own and the results are excellent from f2.8 onward. (I originally bought the Nikkor 180mm lens to have as an autofocus telephoto for my Nikon F4 and Nikon F5 cameras).
(3.2b) Same plan as in San Francisco
When I visited San Francisco back in 2018 I used the Nikkor 180mm f2.8 lens on my Nikon F5 autofocus camera. After that trip I now know I don’t need to carry the weight of the Nikon F5 camera to get great photos. I just need the same great lens. I wanted that beautiful compression look that a long lens can give you for my Lisbon trip. The f2.8 maximum aperture is also great for shooting film if there is less light. The 180mm was the one must have lens for Lisbon (and it turned out to be the most used lens too)
(3.2c) Nikon F5 + Nikkor 180mm
Here are a few Nikon F5 sample photos from San Francisco using the Nikkor 180mm f2.8 AF-D lens. You might see some similarity to a few of my recent Lisbon trip photos.
(3.3) Best compact telephoto lens for Nikon F?
My number one choice for a Nikon F mount short telephoto lens (portrait lens) is the Voigtlander 90mm f2.8 APO. I knew this lens was perfect for Lisbon street photography as I use that lens on my Leica M4-P on my last trip. (This lens is available in both Nikon F and Leica M mount). For Nikon film shooters not aware of Voigtlander SL lenses for Nikon, the top answer here would likely be the famous Nikkor 105mm f2.8 lens. I’ve watched multiple reviews and for travel photos I still think the Nikkor 100mm f2.8 E lens is better. (Similar performance but cheaper and lighter). I own this lens but I always pick up the Voigtlander 90mm f2.8 APO first. To give you an idea of how good the 90mm APO lens is here are a few examples from Budapest and my first trip to Lisbon.
(3.3b) Voigtlander 90mm f2.8 APO photos
The first two Budapest photos were shot with my Nikon FE2 and the F mount 90mm APO. The third photo is Lisbon taken with my Leica M4-P and the Leica M mount version of the 90mm APO lens).
(3.4) Sharpest Nikon F mount lens
For a “normal lens” (50mm ish) I wanted something sharp for Nikon F mount. From my reading one of the sharpest normal lenses is the Nikkor 60mm f2.8 Micro AF-D lens. It said to have sharp edges at wider apertures. A lens which beats this for centre sharpness is the older/ smaller/ lighter Nikkor 55mm f2.8 Micro Ai-s lens. I own the Nikkor 60mm Micro and Nikkor 55mm Micro and for my needs I pack the smaller yet excellent Nikkor 55mm f2.8 for travel.
(3.4b) Nikkor 55mm f2.8 Micro lens
Here are a few sample photos to show how amazing the Nikkor 55mm f2.8 Micro lens is. I took in to Budapest to use with my Nikon FE2 some years ago. I bit too sharp for my female model photography but just awesome for travel photos.
(3.5) Best fast 50mm lens for Nikon F3?
Some Nikon viewers might say the Nikkor 50mm f1.4 Ai-s is the best lens for my Nikon F3/ FE2 etc. I’ve not yet used that lens so of the multiple 50mm lenses I own my choice is the Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 Nikon F mount lens. (Not quite 50mm I realise). I packed this lens for low light use for Lisbon. (Morning and evening photos). I also have the Nikkor 50mm f1.2 Ai-s too but I think the Nokton is slightly sharper at f1.4 for those times of need. (The Nikkor 50mm f1.2 is fantastic from f2. See the Nikon FE2 photoshoot post where I used that lens for all photos.
(3.5b) Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4
If you need a fast 50mm ish lens for Nikon F mount definitely consider the Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4. Excellent for portraits and general photography AND the silver nose versions matches any silver/ champagne colour Nikon SLR film camera beautifully! Here are a few samples –
(3.6) Best pancake lenses for Nikon F mount
OK the last point for lenses, Nikon pancake lenses. I LOVE small lenses for my cameras and that’s probably why I ended up shooting Leica as my main system. SLR lenses are bigger than rangefinder lenses by design so the trick for me is to find the smallest Nikon F mount lenses I can find. Small is important but I need great image quality too. I own the cheap Nikkor 50mm f1.8 E pancakes lenses which are great for the money but there are better optics available. The Nikkor 50mm f1.8 pancake (non-E) is said to be better so I imported that from Japan. (I still want to do a test verses some of my other fast 50s as the first copy of this lens had the aperture stuck open at f1.8 so didn’t improve stopping down). See this video for the first test –
(3.6b) Voigtlander SL pancake lenses for Nikon
Three of my smallest lenses for Nikon F mount are all made by Voigtlander (and all are fantastic!). The Voigtlander SL 20mm f3.5 Color Skopar, Voigtlander SL 28mm f2.8 Color Skopar and Voigtlander SL 40mm f2 Ultron are all pancake lens design. For my Lisbon trip I packed the excellent Voigtlander 28mm Skopar and Voigtlander 40mm Ultron but I just seemed to be seeing longer so didn’t use them. These lenses are so small they are always worth carrying if you own them and the results never disappoint. The Voigtlander 20mm, 28mm or 40mm will also make a small Nikon SLR camera like the Nikon FE2 or Nikon FM3a into a really compact setup. See this video for more info –
(4) Nikon DW-3 waist level viewfinder for Nikon F3
(4.1) Waist level finders are not perfect
I was really excited about the Nikon DW-3 waist level viewfinder when I bought the Nikon F3 but sadly this was short lived. After returning from my 3 day trip to Lisbon I realised I normally shoot portrait orientation not landscape! This is of course not a fault of the Nikon DW-3 finder but just how I shoot. (On a plus point, seeing the world through a waist level finder is a lot of fun and I think it can make for some nice YouTube video footage!)

(4.2) Drawbacks of waist level viewfinders – portrait orientation
It may sound obvious but waist level finders are great for landscape view but terrible for portrait view. Why? A waist level finder (WLF) like the Nikon DW-3 doesn’t flip your image like a standard prism finder so everything back to front. Left is right and right is left. To shoot portraits you have to hold the camera on its side and then try to work back to front. I really struggled! Thankfully I had the Nikon FE2 with me with its standard fixed prism finder so I used that for many of the portrait orientation photos.
(4.3) City problem not a camera problem
For me, many of the Lisbon streets look better shot vertically, the same as I did in San Francisco. Some cities are built more up that outwards (say New York City) where as other locations are flatter and more spread out (perhaps more rural US). For my future city visits I will try to plan ahead as to if I’m shooting mostly as verticals or horizontals. (This is in part a dumb comment as all cities will offer both wider flatter views and tall narrow views. Shooting by the water in Lisbon did make for some great horizontal shots).
(4.4) Nikon DW-3 drawbacks – low level view
This will sound very obvious, but the second drawback of a WLF is the view is lower than eye level (as you hold the camera below head height to look through the camera). If your Nikon F3 is hanging around your neck the camera view is perhaps 0.4-0.5m lower down that what you see with your eyes. This meant I often saw images with my eyes but I couldn’t capture them easily with the Nikon F3 + DW-3 finder. The answer for me was to hold the Nikon F3 over my head pointing the camera backwards. This gives me the height I needed but you look slightly strange in the street doing so. (See the Lisbon video to see me doing this for certain shots).
(4.5) Muscle memory issues – WLF
If you’re used to cameras with eye level viewfinders my third complaint with WLF may resonate with you. If something happens quickly in the street you automatically bring the camera to you eye to take a shot but see no image. This confused me a few times. Was the lens cap still on as all I see is black? No Matt, you looking at the back of the black metal Nikon DW3 WLF (and not the eye-piece of a prism viewfinder/ rangefinder viewfinder). This caught me out so many times haha!

(4.6) Nikkor DW-3 finder – It’s not all bad
Waist level viewfinders are great fun and excellent for those low level shots. I need to go out and shoot some wild mushrooms on a forest floor with my Nikkor 55mm f2.8 Micro lens or similar! WLF are also excellent for tripod work too if that’s your thing. No more hours of cranking your neck over to look through the prism finder. The Nikkor DW-3 is a compact unit that you can carry in your camera bag even if you use a standard prism most of the time. This is a huge perk of the Nikon F3 (and other cameras, Nikon F, Nikon F2 etc) compared to fixed prism cameras (Nikon FE2 etc). I’ll definitely try this setup again for street photography in London as I find it much easier to look down into the cameras than eyeball a person in the street when taking photos.

(4.7) Bonus facts – WLF on the Hasselblad and Mamiya RZ67
Why do you never hear people complaining about portrait orientation difficulties when using a Hasselblad camera? The standard A16 back on Hasselblad 500 series cameras are 6×6 so you don’t need to turn the camera onto it’s side. (*You do if you use Hasselblad A16 645 film backs). If you are a model photographer or wedding photographer you may own a set of steps? Yes they give you added height with normal prism viewfinder cameras but they also allow you to shoot 6ft models at eye level with waist level viewfinder cameras such as the Mamiya RZ67 Pro II or a Hasselblad!
(5) Nikon F3 vs Nikon F3HP
When my Nikon F3 first arrived it only came with the Nikon DW-3 finder. This makes the camera a Nikon F3. The owner then sent me the Nikon HP (high point) finder which she forgot to include. By adding a HP finder to a Nikon F3 body the F3 goes from a Nikon F3 to a Nikon F3HP. Everything else is the same. Both cameras are identical but the viewfinder is different. If you want a smaller lighter setup use a standard Nikon F3 camera with the basic prism finder (Not the larger Nikon F3 HP finder). You can tell a basic Nikon F3 prism finder as it has no HP on the front and looks less tall.
I guess the good news is what I thought was a Nikon F3 is actually a Nikon F3HP and these cameras are more expensive to buy/ highly regarded because of the deemed improved HP finder. (HP finders are great for glasses wearers but I tend to shoot without my glasses).

(6) Nikon F3 vs Nikon F3T Titanium
(6.1) Reading is dangerous!
If your like me, you discover a new great camera, you receive it and then do lots more reading around the topic. It was after getting my Nikon F3 HP (and loving it) that I thought perhaps it would be nice to use two Nikon F3 camera bodies. One for colour film, one for black and white film. The idea was to use one Nikon HP prism finder and one Nikon DW-3 waist level finder. I could then swap the two finders as needed between the two film cameras. Two bodies, two finders, two lenses, two film stocks. Happy days!
(6.2) Nikon F3T Titan or Titanium
If you read around the topic of Nikon F3 film cameras you’ll find that Nikon produced various models under the wider Nikon F3 umbrella. The Nikon F3HP, Nikon F3P (Press) and Nikon F3T (Titanium) are some of the most known models. I love lighter cameras so I thought it might be nice to own a titanium Nikon F3T in black. I wanted a black F3T not the original Nikon F3T champagne (silver) colour. Black cameras seem slightly more expensive but I thought it might be a good investment long term and a lighter camera for use.
(6.3) Buying a black Nikon F3T
After much searching online I spotted a seemingly under-priced black Nikon F3T on a UK shop website. I quickly rang them and bought it a few days before my Lisbon trip with the plan to take a Nikon F3 + Nikon F3T combo. Sadly the F3 Titanium was delayed in the post so I had to take my Nikon FE2 camera instead (as mentioned above). Time is often a GAS killer and it was the case here. I then had the dilemma. Should I keep the F3T or return it. I even made a spur of the moment Nikon F3T YouTube video –
(6.4) Nikon F3T – worth it?
During my Lisbon trip I forgot how great smaller Nikon SLR cameras are such as the Nikon FE2. I just love the lightmeter needle display too and find it much more useful. As my Nikon F3T was not in super clean/ mint condition (worse than my Nikon F3), cost around 2.5x more than a basic Nikon F3 AND takes the same photos, I decided to return it. I did love the matte (silk) paint finish of the Nikon F3T but the weight was only a few grams lighter than my basic Nikon F3HP model. I was hoped it would be lighter somehow.
(6.5) What now?
The camera shop kindly let me return the Nikon F3T so then the reading began again. What is the best Nikon SLR if it’s not the Nikon F3T? (Answer is below!)
(7) What about Nikon FM3A vs Nikon FE2?
(7.1) Long time photography GAS sufferer
If you’ve ever suffered from photography GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) you’ll know it only really has two common cures. (1) Time. Try to distract yourself long enough to get GAS for something else instead! (maybe you like bikes like me or Hi-Fi gear or whatever). The second cure is more common I think. (2) Buy the thing if you are time poor (and can afford it).
For me I can waste so many hours reading up on and researching a topic to death that it become very unproductive really quickly. As now a full time YouTuber/ blogger/ teacher/ influencer? I work longer hours than my most demanding previous corporate jobs. Time is money as they say so that is my excuse to buy sooner. If the item price looks below normal, it’s a reputable seller and I have the return option I click buy. (This was the same for my Leica M10 purchase a few months ago*)


(7.2) Buying the best Nikon film camera
I don’t mind buying stuff as long as I try to buy the best so I only buy once. (That was the idea of the Nikon F3T but it wasn’t til I used it that I realised the Nikon F3 was enough). Now this latest purchase is partly the fault of my awesome YouTube subscribers who comment on my weekly videos. When I mentioned the Nikon F3, the Nikon FE2 and my needs many viewers pointed out the Nikon FM3a. I’ve always thought of the Nikon FM3a as an overpriced Nikon FE2 combined with Nikon FM3a. What changed?
(7.3) Nikon FM3a vs Nikon FE2
As I already own the Nikon FE2 and other similar cameras I always told myself I didn’t need the Nikon FM3a. The problem is knowledge. Lack of knowledge is a beautiful thing. You can live a peaceful happy life just by not watching the days news for example. The same is true for cameras and lenses. Knowledge is both expensive and dangerous. I had never considered the Nikon FM3a simple because I knew little about it. I thought it was just a Nikon FE2/FM2n hybrid made during the same period yet costs over twice as much. Sadly it’s not quite that simple.
(7.4) The finer details – Nikon FM3a
I will likely do a full Nikon FM3a blog post in the future so i’ll try to keep this brief. What I didn’t realise is the Nikon FM2 was first released in 1982 and the Nikon FE2 in 1983. I wrongly assumed that the Nikon FM3a was released in say 1984 but no. The Nikon FM3a was not released until July 2021, almost 20 years later! The FM3a was everything Nikon knew about SLR film cameras put into a single design as the final push for film before digital took over. As we know old cameras, like old cars start to need more TLC / CLAs with age so newer can be a safe bet.
(7.5) Leica M6 vs Nikon FM3a
Until the re-release of the Leica M6 in 2022 the Nikon FM3a was one of the last made high quality film cameras. If you want a camera to last you a lifetime you may as well buy as new as you can. I already own the original Leica M6 Classic and don’t have the money to cover the high price tag of a brand new Leica M6. Luckily Nikon cameras are cheaper than Leica cameras. Yes the Nikon FM3a is perhaps the most expensive Nikon SLR film camera (basic models) but it’s also maybe the most sort after too (and cost a fraction of Leica prices).
(7.6) Nikon FM3a review
I was lucky to find a boxed near mint Nikon FM3a camera well below the usual market price so it was too good not to buy. As blog readers you are the first to hear about this as I’ve not mentioned it on YouTube or social media yet. To get the latest information be sure to sign up to the monthly newsletter (and receive your Blog Insider perks!). (The Nikon FM3a will be my long term replacement for my much loved Nikon FE2 but we’ll cover that next time).
Lisbon trip summary
If you’ve never visited Lisbon in Portugal I can recommend it for photos. I think Budapest is still one of my favourites but Lisbon must be up there in my top 5 too. As with every trip I always think how would I do things next time. I like to learn from each trip to try to do things better next time.

Nikon lenses are not as small as Leica lenses
For my next Lisbon I want to try to do it with ultra compact Leica kit. I’m thinking the following setup.
- 1931 Leica I Standard (black)
- Light Lens Lab 35mm f2 8E (or)
- Voigtlander Heliar 40mm f2.8 LTM +
- Voigtlander Skopar 28mm f2.8 LTM
- Leica M3
- Leica Summilux 50mm f1.4 ASPH
- Voigtlander 90mm f2.8 APO
- Leica Elmar 135mm f4
- Black and white film only
To keep things simple I’d aim to shoot one film stock only. I’d use the Leica Standard as a small point and shoot (zone focus). The Leica M3 would be for low light and longer lenses to get some of that nice compression. I’ll be sure to make a video if I go again so feel free to follow me on YouTube.
Love Nikon film cameras?
Check out the YouTube playlist of all my Nikon related videos –




















Just a quick question… did you actually look at any documentation for the F3 vs the F3t? You mentioned you wanted the F3t because you enjoy lighter cameras… but just like all the industry press outlets who “forget” about the heavier glass, extra batteries, etc. Required for mirrorless cameras, I think you forgot to check the actual weight of the F3t. The body is 35g heavier than the F3. Because titanium isn’t actually “more durable” than equivilent steel casings. It has lower tensile and impact resistance than equal thickness steel. The reason titanium was used in mirror actuation assemblies had nothing to do with how strong it is. It was used because titanium is more resistant to fatigue damage, which allows a lighter assembly with the same expected actuation. To use titanium as a static cover on a camera body is 100% marketing drivel, targeting suckers.
Thanks Robin, I’m normally pretty good with weights as that’s important to me. I often mention in all my videos. Sorry if I overlooked it for this article. (and yes companies do their best to say things to make it sell).
Oh, and while I’m down at the bottom of the article, may as well point out you mentioned the famous nikon 105mm 2.8 lens. I’m pretty sure you are talking about the 105mm 2.5 ais lens. Not the 2.8. I can’t imagine using the 105mm micro lens for travel photography, since it’s most notorious issue is with portrait style photos. The 2.5 on the other hand, was a lens every single photojournalist with an F3 had in their bag at some point. It’s also cheaper than the ais 2.8 micro, although it’s really splitting hairs since both are sub $200 lenses now. You also recommended the voigtlander 90mm as the best small telephoto for an F3. A lens (that while very cheap these days) is still more expensive than one of nikons God tier lenses. The 85mm 1.4 ai-s. That’s a lens I rarely have a reason to uncouple from the D810 I use for club/culture/street available light photography.
Thanks Robin, Sorry for typo with 2.5 vs 2.8. Thanks for correction. In my Nikon days (I was full Nikon til 2013)(D800 etc) I had the 85 f1.4D but my 85mm f1.4 Samyany (first version)(were just starting out) beat it wide open. I’ve not tried the AIS lens but I tend to prefer the AIS models for Nikon. Yes for low light 1.4 is great but for daytime I think the 90 APO is pretty much “god tier” and tough to beat. Stick it on a cheap FG-20 and the results are stellar regardless.
P.S. I’m not bashing all Nikon lenses. I love the 180 2.8D, 200 f2 AIS, 55 2.8 Micro, 28 2.8 (although I now use the Ultron as have the size)..
Ugh. Now I just feel like I’m doing a tedious pedant, but this one is too funny to not point out. Your thoughts on pancake lenses, dslr lenses being bigger/heavier than voigtlander lenses, etc. Just seemed to wildly out of place… since the nikon 50mm 1.8 af-d, the lens literally everyone who owns a nikon owns because they’re $50, all day long. Is 19g lighter than the voigtlander 40mm f2, and if you’re hand shooting, any marginal benefit from slight sharpness differences become a wash, since you’re losing peak fidelity anyways, and you get less vignetting with the 1.8afd to boot, if you need to use it at bright apertures.
Hi Robin, thanks. I think I’m answering your comments in reverse so apologies. Yes good point on the 1.8 being lighter. The Voigtlander is heavier than it looks! I think yes that most users have the 1.8 (any model, AIS, E, D etc)(I had the G for a bit too on a F100 but too automated for me), but I think the more keen photographers then progress to the Voigtlander for better image quality. 40mm or 58mm both are excellent in this FL area. Many of my Patreon are Leica shooters so if they use a Nikon FM3a like me they tend to use Voigtlander glass as I do. Whether they copied me I can’t say but they perform well. If I want the lightest setup I use my FG-20 + 1.8E v3 Japan version (for Nikon).
Hey Mr Leica! Excellent review, this is exactly what I have been looking for!
With regards to the F3 vs F3HP’s viewfinder: does the standard f3 view 100% of the image to be captured? Or <100% like the FE2 at ~ 93%.
I don’t have glasses and am wondering if I need the HP, if both have 100% coverage.
Thanks again!
Patrick
Hi Patrick, yes if you don’t wear glasses the standard finder is all you need. I don’t use my HP finder. Yes both 100% as I understand. Matt